You can either do this with a fancy template, or you can just do it by hand (since nobody will see the underside of your control panel anyways). Then I simply routed out the area inside the square that I drew. This is because it's a lot easier to find the center of a tiny drilled hole than a 1-1/8" hole. I actually marked out the area I needed to rout BEFORE I drilled the 1-1/8" holes (and after I'd drilled the pilot holes). First, I drew a square that matched the size of the joystick's mounting plate, centered on the joystick pilot hole I'd drilled. This seemed to go more smoothly.įor the joystick attachment, I needed to rout out part of the underside for the joystick mounting plate, because un-routed 3/4" MDF would only leave a tiny nub of joystick sticking out. So, I started drilling about 1/4 of the way through the bottom first, then flipping the board over and drilling through the top. After drilling a couple holes, I noticed that the bit was tearing chunks out of the underside as the bit came through the MDF. Graphics Print/Laminate Applied to Panel (+ 14. Add 2 usb ports to your panel for easy access to your computer or raspberry pi. Extra protection by adding a cnc cut plexiglass top. Design your own with provided templates or choose from previous customer graphics. they should be flush with the top edge, and set back 1.25' from the front and back edges. I started with one of the joystick holes, since any mistakes will be covered up by the joystick washer. Take your control panel to the next level. cut some 1x2 pine boards into strips and screw/glue them to the sides for bracing. Now to drill the holes for the buttons and joysticks using a 1-1/8" forstner bit. With the holes center punched, I removed the graphic template, and used a small drillbit to drill pilot holes. I want these holes to be drilled as accurately as possible, so I'm taking my time. Graphic template clamped to control panel top piece. I printed a full size version of my control panel graphics, and clamped them to the top piece. The next step is to prep the top panel for joysticks and buttons. Having the back panel detached did help immensely with the wiring process, however.) (Ultimately, I never actually made a latching system, and the control panel simply rests snugly in place. And the back panel also isn't actually screwed on for now, because I need to be able to access the underside of the top panel to formulate some kind of latching system. The top is not attached, since it will be detachable on the finished product. Then I glued & screwed all the pieces together. I screwed and glued the strips on, screwing through the MDF and into the furring strips (since the wood of the furring strip will do a better job gripping the threads at the end of the screw than the MDF). I started by cutting out the six sides of the control panel box, and attaching furring strips to keep them together. is basically the online bible of arcade button layouts, and I made full use of it. I tested several mock layouts on paper until I found one that I liked. A fair amount of effort went into the control panel.
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